Chebt_Electronics Up for sale I have some Nintendo DS motherboards that have previously been tested to turn on, read games, register button inputs, charge and have working touch functions. They were taken from units with broken shells/ cracked screens. Does not include charger, stylus or any games, just one motherboard. No returns have a good day
Will come with 5 1500uf 16v, 5 3300uf 6.3v and the clock capacitor 1f 2.7v
Original Nintendo DS Lite Motherboard, the small clamp next to the wifi card where the bottom screen goes is missing I tried fixing it but i wasnt able to, the motherboard still works and I will be including 3 clamps for the bottom screen and a solder kit that includes a soldering iron, solder, and different tips so you can fix it yourself. This is a great way to get introduced in soldering and to know what parts are replaced on the motherboard. Everything else on the motherboard is original. If there is any questions or more pictures are needed I will be more than glad to provide those for you.
Nintendo NES OpenTendo Motherboard – New – Your Choice Of Color! Also included is a COMPLETE components kit to populate the motherboard. Even the hard to find diode arrays, transistors, RAM Chips and lockout chip ALL NEW Boards are all brand new replacement motherboards for the front loader NES designed by Redherring32 https://github.com/Redherring32/OpenTendo Boards come in 4 colors. Matte Black, Green, Red, and Blue You can order just the board only or complete kit ALL parts in the kit are BRAND NEW components, nothing has been salvaged from a donor console. Each component in the kit is individually sealed in a bag. The bags have easy to understand labels to ensure each component is easily identifiable as well as where it gets populated on the motherboard. See pictures for examples. The optional kit includes the following: CIC Lockout Chip – Lockout chip is also designed by RedHerring32Lockout chip is assembled by me and tested for functionality Resistors – 1 x 10k Resistor Array1 x 6.8k Resistor Array1 x 1Meg Ohm2 x 510 Ohm2 x 100 Ohm1 x 220 Ohm1 x 47k Ohm2 x 20k Ohm1 x 12k Ohm1 x 220k Ohm1 x 1.2k Ohm1 x 150k Ohm1 x 100k Ohm1 x 2.2k Ohm2 x 1k Ohm Capacitors – 1 x 100uF1 x 2.2uF1 x 1uF20 x 10nF12 x 330pF4 x 220pF2 x 100nF1 x 18pF1 x 15pF2 x 56pF2 x .015uF1 x 30pF Trim Capacitor Integrated Circuits – 2 x 74HC368 Buffer1 x 74HC139 Decoder1 x 74HCU04 Inverter1 x 74HC373 Latch Semiconductors and Misc – 1 x SA937 Transistor2 x SC2021 Transistors2 x uPA64HA Diode Arrays2 x DAN601 Diode Arrays1 x 21.477272 MHz Clock1 x 4 MHz Resonator 1 x 39uH Inductor1 x Ferrite Bead2 x 5.1V Zener Diode Optional RAM – 2 x RAM Chips I will be adding PPUs, CPUs, and connectors to the kit in the future, for now they can be found in my store also with free shipping. PPU Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/235794523961CPU Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/235765538431Connector Headers Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/235768658600 This project does require soldering skills to complete. If you have any questions, please reach out. I will try my best to answer any questions I can, but I can not give one on one instructions on how to install the components.
This is a motherboard from a Vita 2000 model that I parted out. It’s official Sony brand and has been tested and works. I’m not sure what firmware it’s running, since I didn’t check before removing it. This is from a Japanese import, so X and O are swapped for function (apart from during gameplay) and the language has been set to English. This won’t work in any 1000/1100 series system. Check out my other listings for everything PSP and PS Vita related. This was fully tested in the original vita prior to the part-out so it will 100% work, but it won’t work if you put it in a vita with other defective parts or don’t properly install it. Do not buy this part unless you are sure you need a motherboard. If you’re unsure, ask prior to purchasing. I don’t offer returns if you find out you actually have an issue with a different part.
Has the serial port 2 slot, as well as the digital and analog ports. Region has been set to USA.
UPDATED: It’s now a slip on resin jigThis is a PCB USB-C charging port to replace the original charging port on the Nintendo DSL, this port works with USB-C to USB-C cable charging so you don’t need to worry about having a USB to USB-C cable. The Installation jig allows you to solder down the board while holding it in alignment, two thumb screws are provided for easy assembly and disassembly of the jig. Due to the heat of the iron I consider the jig to be a single use item but I’ve started printing them out of ASA for greater thermal resistance. Here is my installation process: BOARD INSTALLATION1. Disassemble your Nintendo DS Lite, be very mindful of the trigger springs and rods 2. Remove the PCB. 3. Use a hot air station @290C (no more than 30-40 seconds is necessary) to remove the original charging port (preheat the board with a hot plate @168C or use the hot air station to preheat the board) 4 Optional. Clean the PCB pads, and use sand paper or a rotary too to expose the top most trace (it’s the one nearest to the edge). Add solder to this exposed trace, it will melt into the USB-C receptacle making a stronger hold 5. Place the USBC board into the resin jig (if not already in there) and then firmly slip the jig onto the PCB there is a silk screen square around the component next to the fuse (the component circled in red in the pictures) try to line up the edge of the USBC board with that to give you a good idea if it’s on straight. 6. Turn the PCB board over and apply flux to the holes. 7. Use a decent amount of solder to the affix the board. I have my iron at 295C for this and I rotate between all of the pads/holes to make sure a decent of amount of solder flows through. 8. Use a multimeter to test GND (-) and VCC(+) make sure that they’re not shorted and that you have good connections between PCB GND and USBC board GND and the same for VCC. 9. After continuity testing you’ll need to snip the curled arm on the resin jig so that you can properly remove the resin jig (I use flush cutters). SANDING/FITTING1. Set aside any loose plastic parts from the bottom half of your DS lite so you don’t lose them. 2. The USB-C receptacle hangs over the motherboard (expected) however the tips of the USB-C board hang over the motherboard as well and they cause interference with the bottom half of the DS lite. I use flush cutters to nip off the majority of it. Now you have a decision to make either grind it away with a rotary tool or file so it’s flush with the motherboard (the board not the receptacle) or do the filing on the bottom half of the DS lite (I HIGHLY recommend you do the latter the amount of filing of the USBC board is obscene and there will be metal dust everywhere). The filing on the bottom half of the DS lite would need to be done on the inner side of the wall directly on the left and right of the charging port cutout (essentially thinning that section of the wall). 3. Look at the screwhole/post to the immediate left of the charging port section of the bottom half of the ds lite, you will need to cut the raised portion. The depth of your cut should be to the flat part of the screw hole and it should encompass half of the circular flange (look at the photos to see it). 4. You will need to cut down the raised walls that secure the old charging port in the bottom half of the DS lite, the walls will have to be cut down to the height of the charging port cutout (refer to the photo in the listing but you don’t need to totally remove the right wall like I did. 5. Now we’ll check for the clearance of the USB-C receptacle, take the motherboard and place it in the bottom half of the DS lite and see if the USB-C receptacle slides into the charging port cutout, if it’s too snug lightly file the sides of the cutout. 6. Take the bezel and fit it into the three hole section of the charging port section of the bottom half of the DS lite it should fit easily and then place the motherboard in the bottom half of the DS lite to check for fit. Sand and file down any obstructions until you have a good fit. The sanding is the hardest part. REQUIRED BUT NOT INCLUDED TOOLS: 1. A soldering Iron2. Flux3. Solder4. Screwdrivers5. Multimeter6. Grinding pen or rotary tool or files (highly) RECOMMENDED BUT NOT INCLUDED TOOLS: 1. Hot air station2. Hot plate INCLUDED: 1. USB-C PCB board fully assembled2. 3D Printed Installation Jig3. Two 3D Printed bezels
Motherboard is completely functional and comes with the wifi card. The button contacts may be cleaned and sanded if needed and the trigger buttons may be cleaned if needed. In response to multiple reports, any warranty is based on the condition of the board upon being received. I will send a refund if the board is damaged upon delivery, but I cannot send a refund if it is believed that damage is done through user error.
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